Well, some of my cheesy temporary lights work, but only after chasing out a short in one of the small lamps. Sadly, it seems like some of the “original” electrical equipment is not actually operable; so far the list definitely includes the DB-10 control box for the rear lights, and possibly the combination light/ignition switch, which at best seems fairly flaky.
The headlights not operating could also be the high beam foot switch, so I’ll have to give that an eyeball, too. I always test a new wiring job using a 15 amp fuse inline with a temporary ground cable off the battery, so if there are any dead shorts (looking at you cheap motorcycle lights), the fuse pops quickly, keeping the smoke in the wires. I haven’t tried the horns, they are new and I have already tested the switch…and they are the only electrical device with their own fuse, at 35 amps perhaps a bit more than my temporary lead can handle.